CA20DET powered Gazelle

[4GOT10]

NEED PICS CANDELLAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Also can you expalin how to do the calculations for friction co-efficiency. and what would that be relative to?

One last thing, was there much trouble with the CA18 head fitting onto the CA20 bottom end?

the CA20 has a timing chain where theCA18 has a belt, what did you do there?

was it a strip down job, or a simple swap over?

Cheers

[Umai Naa!!]

WTF?

No CA20 had a timing chain!!

What drugs are you on ?

From memory, the biggest issue was headbolt thickness, and timing belt length.

[4GOT10]

I have no idea

why is there no shrugging smiley?

that would have been perfect

[Candellan]

NEED PICS CANDELLAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Also can you expalin how to do the calculations for friction co-efficiency. and what would that be relative to?

One last thing, was there much trouble with the CA18 head fitting onto the CA20 bottom end?

the CA20 has a timing chain where theCA18 has a belt, what did you do there?

was it a strip down job, or a simple swap over?

Cheers

Pics are coming.....and so is xmas (oh wait that's just gone). I have a new tripod so I better test it out soon .

Aint no timing chain on a CA bud. Silicon belts all the way.

The CA18 head sits on the CA20 block easily (same head gasket from CA16-CA18-CA20). The problems are:

• CA20 had bolts holes are too small. I had my block redrilled and tapped and used new CA18DET bolts. Aparently VG bolts fit (larger head tapers to smaller thread).
• Completely custom timing belt path including having the bottom belt gear sleeved as the CA20 crank is smaller.
• Custom timing belt cover needs to be fabricated.
• Intake supports too short.
• Bonnet hits motor (unless you space it up or put a VG/FJ bulge in it).
• ECU was remapped for bigger injectors/turbo/etc, but MAY run fine on a stock CA ECU.
• Turbo Oil & water and heater lines need to be plumbed into the CA18 system.
• Shot peened rods and new pistons. As the stock gear is very light. The CA18 girdle should fit (though I'm not using one...yet).
• The Pintara CA20 block apparently has 2mm thicker cylinder walls. Good time to fit I-beam rods, forgied and that girdle.
• You miss out on the larger oil pump and piston oil squirters

So as you can see it's not a fit and forget conversion. Doing a CA18DET conversion is a lot easier and cheaper.

[Shinigami]

Hey candellan since your using the ca20e block, wouldnt that make your ca18det a 2.0L engine?


John

[DRIFTKID]

thats why the threads called ca20det powered gazelle

[Ozchuck]

Needs more boost!

[gerryb]

Yeah come on 12psi, lets f$#k this bottom end so you can try the Pintara one with the girdle, and in the meantime do some research on the rods to see if you can find some with some meat to replace the ca20 matchstick ones

[Candellan]

When the guys were tuning it they asked how much boost I'd like, when I said the rods are matchsticks and the pistons are stock (new) CA20 ones the guy went white and rushed back into the dyno to turn down the boost. I don't think they'd done a power run as yet (thankfully), but who knows how much boost it had at that point. I didn't want to know.

The rods for the Pinny block are going to be I-beam forgies and same for the peestons. But that's a looooong way off yet.

[gerryb]

I've never seen inside a ca18det block, is there anyway to do a mod to transfer the oil squirters ?